Ankara, Turkey

Gordion Hotel, Kavaklidere

Visiting Ankara on a cold January morning meant suitcases filled with woollies to combat temperatures of -10 degrees celsius. The capital city of Turkey sits in the middle of the central Anatolian plateau. I was excited to learn that this humming city can trace its history back to the bronze age and has been a part of historic events through several great civilisations. The region's history goes back to the Bronze Age, Hatti Civilization, which was succeeded in the 2nd millennium BC by the Hittites, and then the Phrygians (10th century BC); Lydians and Persians followed. After these came the Galatians, a Celtic race who were the first to make Ankara their capital (3rd century BC). It was then known as Ancyra, meaning anchor. The town subsequently fell to the Romans, Byzantines, and Selcuks under Alpaslan in 1073, and then to the Ottomans under Yildirim Beyazit in 1402, who remained in control until the First World War. Wow, that's a load of history in a nutshell.





Today the modern city is abuzz with the hustle and bustle of traffic and people.
Driving into the city centre, I had the impression of approaching into an amphitheatre. The Gordion Hotel where I stayed was located in this commercial district. Downtown Ankara isn't pretty. It's crowded and traffic is congested.

Village scenes with snowcapped mountains
Away from the city centre, ascending to the higher altitudes to the village of Ulus, the air is cleaner, fresher and more habitable. Houses of brick and wood are built somewhat crookedly into the hills. Treacherous paths weaved through the rickety houses and kids were running up and down the lanes, curious at the sight of this lone Asian girl. The panoramic views of snow capped mountains in the distance is a breathtaking sight.

Antique market near Ankara Citadel

Ulus is also centred on an ancient citadel on a hilltop. In this area alone there are several Roman archaeological sites. Along the narrow alleys, rows of shops selling Eastern delights like leather goods, wool carpets, copperware, spices and jewellery. It was like a storybook scene from Ali Baba's den of treasures. A well-known and frequently visited place among antiques hunters, this is a must see place.
Also around Ankara citadel, more shops ranging from well organized to run-down ones, offer curios from ornate brasswork ampshades and kilims to brass doorknobs. Not to be missed : Bakırcılar Carşısı (Copper Alley at Salman street) with a wide variety of gifts and copper & brass items and Baharatçılar Carşısı (an open air spice market just outside the main entry of the Castle) for exotic spices, herbs and dried fruits.














Ankara's main attraction is the Anatolian Civilisation Museum. It is one of the richest museums in Turkey. Artifacts from the various civilizations in Anatolia, starting from the Stone Age (50,000 B.C., Middle Paleolithic Period), and periods until the Roman Period (second century A.D.) can be seen here. It is filled with fascinating collections of archaeological finds, from monolithic statues to delicate jewellery, including some from Catal Huyuk, believed to be the earliest known human social community in the world. From the Palaeolithic and Neolithic, and through all the great civilizations since, this museum is like a time machine for antiquity buffs.

A must see: The Roman Temple of Augustus was built by the Romans in the 2nd century AD, and contains the best-preserved copy of Emperor Augustus' last will and testament, inscribed on the vestibule walls. The temple itself is in ruins and not open to the public, but together with other Roman ruins in the vicinity (including the Roman baths and the column of Julian) it is an exciting port of call for classical history addicts.
Treasures of Anatolian Museum

Turkish food is a mix of Greek and Arabic. I found the Mezze which is a cold platter of assorted dishes notably: Dolma (vine wrapped ), Hummus (chickpeas paste ), Eggplant puree etc.. a good introductory course. The unmistakable kebaps and "pide" ( turkish bread ) is delicious. A quick fix of "cha" (tea) or strong turkish coffee with sweets like Baklava is the perfect energy boost.
Shish Kepabs, Cha, Pistachio nuts, Baklava
Things to buy include Almonds, Cashews, Pistachio nuts, dried fruits and honeycombs. Special items to look out for are garish and opulent Ottoman rings and turkish filigree gold jewelleries. The evil eye, which is a circular disc set in blue and black dot, supposedly protects the wearer from evil or negative forces.


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