Peranakan Heritage Penang




Streets of George Town
Modern cities like Singapore, Tokyo and Kuala Lumpur woo visitors with cavernous shopping malls, restaurants of pedigree, multi-million dollar residences, resorts, playgrounds and casinos.

While tucked away off the Malay Peninsula, in the Straits of Malacca, Penang offers something a little more nostalgic, authentic and laid-back. Its capital George Town still bears testimony to the British colonial era with Fort Cornwallis occupying a strategic sea front location. Other visible colonial influences can be seen throughout the island in stately buildings and shop fronts.

"The architecture of Penang reflects the 171 years of British presence on the island, coalescing with local, Chinese, Indian, Islamic and other elements to create a unique and distinctive brand of architecture."  Along with Malacca, Penang is an architectural gem of Malaysia and Southeast Asia. Unlike Singapore, also a Straits Settlement, where many heritage buildings had to make way for modern skyscrapers and high-rise apartments due to rapid development and acute land scarcity, Penang's architectural heritage has enjoyed a better fate. Penang has one of the largest collections of pre-war buildings in Southeast Asia.[1] This is for the most part due to the Rent Control Act which froze house rental prices for decades, , making redevelopment unprofitable. With the repeal of this act in 2000 however, property prices skyrocketed and development has begun to encroach upon these buildings, many of which are in a regrettable state of disrepair.[2] The government in recent years has allocated more funding to finance the restoration of a number of derelict heritage buildings, most notably Suffolk House, City Hall and historic buildings in the old commercial district."  

 ( excuse me for adding this trivia by Wikipedia )
Pastries, my Achilles heels

My short stay in Penang remains one of the most interesting and unforgettable visits (and I have travelled to many cities in the world), mostly because of my ancestral roots. Being of Peranakan descent, my family roots trace back to Malacca and the Riau Islands of Indonesia.

Penang classics like Assam Laksa and Hor Fan ( both are broth-based noodle dishes ) went down very well with me.
And nothing better than Ice-kacang ( ice shavings with syrup and condiments) and Chendol ( coconut milk laced with palm sugar and jelly bits ) on a hot humid afternoon.

Gurney Drive, famous for its seafront open air hawker centre has moved some metres inward due to the ongoing reclamation work on the sea. Undeterred, bus loads of Chinese tourists still spill onto the hawker centre, filling up the seats rapidly. Fresh coconut water, grilled Sambal Chilli Sting-ray and Satays were my catch of the day.
Still hungry after all that, I bagged some luscious egg tarts, kaya puffs and salted egg pastries from Ming Xiang Tai bakery to take back to my hotel room !


Peranakan Nyonya Kebaya
Shopping was equally good as I explored the upscale Gurney Plaza in search of Nyonya kebaya. There were two shops selling kebaya right next to each other.
Kim Fashion had lovely kebaya tops but the sales person was rather curt with me. Perhaps because I asked for longer-sleeve lengths?
The other store, Jade Collection stocked more evening dresses, cheongsams but only a limited choice of kebaya tops.

In the end, I bought three kebaya tops from a store at Komtar Complex, right next to Hotel Jen. Affordable prices and a very friendly sales lady sealed the deal.

Pinang Peranakan Mansion

Peranakan wedding bed 




A visit to the Pinang Peranakan Mansion is a must as the mansion has the biggest private collection of Peranakan paraphernalia in this part of the world. Take the free tour which is a fun and interesting way to learn about the Peranakan culture and people.

The Blue Mansion or Cheong Fatt Tze is also another interesting heritage building to visit, and it is a hotel as well. Visits to this mansion are restricted to hotel guests only, or you can join the daily tours at RM18 per head. ( check online for reservations )

Street art imitating life

For free sights, explore George Town's Penang Street Art where you can find several wall paintings by Lithuanian artist Ernest Zacharevic. Then meander through these streets to pick up souvenirs and do try the local foods. At dusk, head towards the Clan Jetties of Penang: Chew jetty, Tan jetty. These are people's homes erected on stilts spanning over the seabed. Mom and Pop souvenir shops, small eateries dot the wooden gangway as you walk towards the end of the jetty. 
Lovely at sunset and instagram worthy.


Getting around Penang is easy with Grab, and you can pay in cash. All you need is a pre-paid local SIM card and off you go! 

I had a fun time in Penang and will definitely come back for Peranakan beaded shoes, food and that famous Tau Sar Piah pastries.


Peranakan beaded slippers

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