Visiting Tel Aviv and Jerusalem is an experience that affects you no matter what your religious and political affinities are. Here history goes back to about 4500 BC, where the bedrock of monotheistic religions Judaism, Islam and Christianity have their beginnings. Archeological digs have and continue to unearth ancient cities and structures as we know from Biblical scriptures. It is exhilarating to see The Dead Sea Scrolls of the Qumran caves, King Hezekiah's tunnel, Pool of Bethesda, Apostle Peter's house, the Sea of Galilee and many more.
Tel Aviv
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| Mediterranean sea |
I started my trip in Tel Aviv, a modern city on the Israeli Mediterranean coastline. There are 16 beaches along the coastline favoured by locals and tourists. There is Nordau Beach ( Separation Beach ) for men only and women only on separate and alternate days, Jerusalem beach and Tel Aviv beach with nice surf, clean sand and popular with families. So liberal is Tel Aviv that even the LGBT community has their own preferred beach called Hilton Beach. People here like to see themselves as modern, non-conformist and free to practice what they like.
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| Jaffa Look-out point |
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| Jaffa Old Port |
It is a long but pleasant walk along the esplanade to the ancient port of Jaffa (sometimes translated as Joppa or Joppe). Jaffa is where Jonah got swallowed by the whale when he tried to flee from God as recounted in the Book of Jonah. No whales in sight though, but lots of Instagram worthy spots like the flea market in Jaffa with its Hookah bars, alleyways and Arabic restaurants. A visit to the Abouelafia bakery and Falalel HaKosem is a must for delicious baklava and falafel without getting ripped off.
Be warned that in Israel, prices are frequently not listed or perhaps only in Hebrew /Arabic script and it will be wise to ask around a few stalls before committing your shekels.
If you like some shopping, the streets of Allenby, King George and Dizengoff Centre are worth a visit. The Carmel market, neighbourhoods such as White City and Neve Tzedek are places to visit if you have some extra time.
I stayed at the
Metropolitan Hotel in Tel Aviv which is next to the beach and not far from the commercial centre. However, I would avoid this hotel next time because it was just too crowded and you have to contend with large noisy tour groups who descend for breakfast at 6 am already like locusts : any notion of quietly nursing your cafe latte is tossed out of the window. The better hotel choices would be a boutique hotel or an international hotel chain like Sheraton where your FF mileage points could come in handy.
The number of tourist arrivals to Israel is mind-boggling. I saw tour buses pull up at the hotel daily. Also when I booked a day tour to Masada and the Dead Sea, I was picked up from my hotel and then transferred to a meeting point where, together with hundreds other tourists, I was assigned to a different bus. And this is the just one tour operator!
Masada & Dead Sea
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| Masada by cable car |
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| Dead Sea soak |
I ascended Masada by cable car as hiking up the snake path would be a Herculean task as the Judean sun was unbearably fierce that summer day. At the summit lay ruins and remnants of a glorious past, of palaces, terraces, water storage cisterns, baths and temples, so a guide and some imagination was needed. The Dead sea experience was quite painful as the sea water with 35% salinity stung every bit of my exposed skin. I almost jumped out of the water when the back of my knees, which I had been scratching, hurt very badly. Getting water in the eyes warranted an immediate rinsing with fresh water and accidentally drinking the water required First Aid attention. With so many warnings, it is a wonder that hundreds of bathers still take to the waters for the no-sinking sensation. Reputed to be rich in minerals, I also smeared myself with dead sea mud which left my skin velvety soft but I am certain that it is the salinity of the sea water that did the trick.
Nazareth and Sea of Galilee
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| By the Sea of Gallilee |
I also joined a full day trip to the Sea of Galilee and Nazareth. I wanted to see where Jesus and his disciples preached, lived and performed miracles. It was a mini pilgrimage for me as I stood in the Jordan river at Yardenit, where John the Baptist baptized the early Christians.
I also visited Tabgha, Capernaum, Tiberius where Jesus performed many miracles, passed by the village of Canaan where Jesus turn water into wine and visited the Church of Multiplication where Jesus fed the multitudes with 2 loaves of bread and 4 fishes and there were still leftovers...
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| Jesus' Tabgha |
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| Baptismal Site in Yardenit, Jordan River |
Jerusalem
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| View from Mount Olives |
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| Never lost.. |
After 5 days in Tel Aviv, I moved to Jerusalem, the hotly contested city between Israelis and Palestinian. As a tourist, my interests are only to be able to visit the holy sites without any hinderance or danger. Is it calming to see gun toting uniformed Israeli police and military at more "sensitive" installations like the Dome of the Rock? Watch this youtube commentary on
Dome of the Rock.
The old city of Jerusalem is amazing to visit with ancient pavements, sacred sites upon which churches have been built and rebuilt many times over. I followed the Via Dolorosa which is the way of the cross and visited the Holy Sepulchre, Herod's Palace, the Cenacle ( Upper Room site of the Last Supper ) with Father Eeckhout, a priest of the Dominican order whom I was fortunate to have as a guide.
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| Pool of Bethesda |
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| Golgotha site, Gordon's way |
On his advice, I also visited the Notre Dame of Jerusalem for the
Shroud Exhibition. As I poured over the numerous scientific findings and literature, I grew increasingly convinced about the shroud's authenticity. The number of tests and analysis that have been done on this piece of shroud was like investigative work on a crime scene. I left the exhibit with a lump in my throat.
I also went to the Israel Museum where the Dead Sea scrolls are kept, accompanied by a Jewish historian friend. It was a good three hour visit with lots of works, from prehistory to present day, of Jewish art and culture, archeology and Fine arts. Next to this museum is the Bible Lands Museum which is even more interesting for someone interested in archeology in the Bible. I was super fortunate that a very dear friend, trained in Biblical Archeology in this museum, took me around.
Bethlehem, Taybeh, Jericho
Another expatriate friend working in Jerusalem also volunteered to take me to visit some holy sites in the Palestinian West Bank. We visited Bethlehem's Church of Nativity. Here lies a cavern where Jesus Christ was born. It was amazing to see the space to understand that it wasn't in a manger nor stable after all, as depicted in Christmas cards and school nativity plays.
We also visited the
Walled Off Hotel, where Banksy left his paintings in the hotel and on the West Bank barrier wall. It is a shock to learn a bit more about the Israeli-Palestinian conflict and settlement issues. One wonders when there will be peace, acceptance and harmonious living among peoples here. It is a pity that Gaza, the West Bank and Palestinian held territories have poorer touristic infrastructures, hampered by bothersome border controls. There are still many biblical sites there to visit, but alas.. it becomes a tad too complicated for the ordinary tourist.
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| Mount of Temptation |
Jericho, a Palestinian city in the West Bank area is where diggings are on-going to uncover the famed walls of Jericho as told in the Old Testament. We ascended the Mount of Temptation, where Jesus was tempted by Satan, to a little monastery tucked into the hills. Here, the monks live in seclusion except for the occasional tourists who come to visit.
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| Posing by the Sycamore tree |
Then we travelled to Taybeh, another Palestinian village in the West Bank. It has been identified as the site of Ophrah, mentioned in the Bible as Ephraim. This was where Jesus and his disciples withdrew to when the Pharisees made the decision to kill him. ( John 11: 53-54 ). Today, this hilly region is home to the Taybeh Brewery where you can buy beer and a variety of wine. We had a fantastic lunch at the Taybeh Golden Hotel, overlooking olive groves and almond trees.
According to my friend Eddy, there were many more biblical sites to visit, such as the well where Jesus talked to the Samaritan woman. Alas, one needs more time to be able to cover all the sites and I am certain I will be back for more.
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